A hoodie (also called a hooded sweatshirt or hoody) is a sweatshirt with a hood. They often include a muff sewn onto the lower front, a hood, and (usually) a drawstring to adjust the hood opening, and may have a vertical zipper down the center similar to a windbreaker style jacket.
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The garment's style and form can be traced back to Medieval Europe when the formal wear for monks included a long, decorative hood called cowl worn a tunic or robes.[1] The hooded sweatshirt was first produced in the United States starting in the 1930s, but historical precedent dates The modern clothing style was first produced by Champion in the 1930s and marketed to laborers working who endured freezing temperatures while working in upstate New York.[2] The term hoodie entered popular usage in the 1990s.[3]
The hoodie took off in the 1970s, with several factors contributing to its success. Hip hop culture developed in New York City around this time, and the hoodie's element of instant anonymity, provided by the accessible hood, appealed to those with criminal intent.[2] High fashion also contributed during this era, as Norma Kamali and other high-profile designers embraced and glamorized the new clothing.[1] Most critical to the hoodie's popularity during this time was its iconic appearance in the blockbuster Rocky film. By the 1990s, the hoodie had evolved into a symbol of isolation, a statement of academic spirit, and several fashion collections. The association with chavs/neds in the UK developed around this time, as their popularity rose with that specific demographic. Young men, often skateboarders or surfers, sported the hoodie and spread the trend across the western United States, most significantly in California. The rise of hoodies with university logos began around this time. Tommy Hilfiger, Giorgio Armani, and Ralph Lauren, for example, used the hoodie as the primary component for many of their collections in the 1990s.[1][2] In May 2005, at a time of recent publicity surrounding "Hoodies" in shopping centres, an infant travel wrap called the "Baby Hoodie" was launched by Morrck,[4] a small UK company run by 'Mum-preneurs'. Towards the late 2000s and 2010s, the hoodie has become increasingly popular with male youths in Australia.[5]
In Saskatchewan, the hoodie is often known as a "bunny hug" or "bunnyhug".[6][7] Now being very popular with youth culture - Scene Kids - it shaken off it's dark meaning and is fun way of implementing cartoon features (kawaii, anime) in the outfit, e.g. monster eyes and spikes or kitty ears on Hoodie.
In June 2011, police in Wynnum, Brisbane launched a 'Hoodie Free Zone' initiative, with shopkeepers encouraged to ask hoodie-wearers to leave. The zone is part of an initiative to educate businesses on how they can avoid armed robberies, in which the clothing is often worn.[8]
Across Canada hoodies are often worn by people in many settings for warmth, protection against wind and comfort. They are often worn under a coat or jacket to provide extra layer of clothing. Hoodies in Canada have little class connotations and are rarely associated with criminal intent.
"National Hoody Day", a pro-youth initiative to challenge youth stereotypes, was launched in May 2008 in New Zealand.[9] The campaign resulted in criticism at a number of levels within government,[10] including a local council member (Dale Evans) donning a Ku Klux Klan outfit in protest, citing the hoodie as "not an appropriate article of clothing to celebrate".[11] Many retail complexes have banned the wearing of hoodies and non-compliance and/or defiance can result in eviction or accusation of trespass.
In the UK, hoodies have been the subject of much criticism; some shoplifters have used the hood to conceal their identities from CCTV cameras in shopping centres.[12] Particularly when worn with a baseball cap, the hoodie has become a trademark of "chavs", or Neds.
Angela McRobbie, professor of communications at Goldsmiths College in the UK, says the appeal of the hoodie is because of its promise of anonymity, mystery and anxiety. "The point of origin is obviously black American hip-hop culture, now thoroughly mainstream and a key part of the global economy. Leisure and sportswear adopted for everyday wear suggests a distance from the world of office suit or school uniform. Rap culture celebrates defiance, as it narrates the experience of social exclusion. Musically and stylistically, it projects menace and danger as well as anger and rage. The hooded top is one in a long line of garments chosen by young people, usually boys, to which are ascribed meanings suggesting that they are 'up to no good'. In the past, such appropriation was usually restricted to membership of specific youth cultures - leather jackets, bondage trousers - but nowadays it is the norm among young people to flag up their music and cultural preferences in this way, hence the adoption of the hoodie by boys across the boundaries of age, ethnicity and class."[13]
In May 2005, Bluewater shopping centre in Kent caused outrage by launching a code of conduct which bans its shoppers from sporting hoodies or baseball caps, although the garments remain on sale. John Prescott welcomed the move, stating that he had felt threatened by the presence of hooded teenagers at a motorway service station.[13] Then-Prime Minister Tony Blair openly supported this stance and vowed to clamp down on the anti-social behaviour with which hoodie wearers are sometimes associated. London-based rapper Lady Sovereign published a single titled "Hoodie" in protest as part of a "Save the Hoodie" campaign.[14]
In 2005, Coombeshead College in the south-west of England allowed the hoodie to become part of the boys' school uniform, but the hood could be put up only when it rained. The principal, Richard Haigh, stated that the move would help to calm some of what he called the "hysteria" surrounding the garment.[15]
In February 2006, a 58-year-old teacher who was wearing a hooded top was asked to remove it when entering a Tesco store in Swindon. According to the teacher, she was wearing the hood because "my hair's a mess". The shop apologized and said it was taking action to "make sure this doesn't happen again."[16]
In July 2006, David Cameron, leader of the Conservative Party, made a speech suggesting that the hoodie was worn more for defensive than offensive purposes.[17] The speech was referred to as "hug a hoodie" by the Labour Party.[18][19]
Throughout the US it is common for middle school, high school and college students to wear sweatshirts with or without hoods that display their respective school names and/or mascots across the chest either as part of a uniform or personal preference. Among the general US population, they are commonly worn while partaking in outdoor activities or as casual dress and are a near-ubiquitous fashion item for children, teenagers and young adults.
Hoodies have become mainstream fashion transcending the hood's original utilitarian purpose,[20] similar to jeans. This has found its way into a variety of styles, even so far as to be worn under a suit jacket.
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